Original and simple DIY bathhouse crafts. How to cut letters out of wood with your own hands: create original signs What types of accessories can I buy for the bath

A wooden sign in a bathhouse is a decorative element of the interior, which not only performs an indicating function, but also, having its own unique, attractive design, will become a decoration for your bathhouse.

You can, of course, go to the “Everything for a Bath” store and buy a ready-made sign, perfect in its design, with a carved inscription and a picture on a bath theme:

He who sweats does not grow old
Mr. broom in the bathhouse

etc.

Such wooden signs look very impressive above the front door of a bathhouse or steam room...

They are on sale and are not that expensive: around 500 rubles.

But try making a sign for a bathhouse with your own hands...

To make a sign for a bathhouse from wood, you first need to select a board.

The board must meet certain conditions so that something on the bath theme can be depicted on it in the future:

the thickness of the board should be no more than 30mm. Agree that a 50mm board will be too bulky
If the inscription will be made by carving, then it is best to find a board made of linden. This is soft wood, on which not only inscriptions, but also entire scenes on a bathhouse theme can be easily obtained
If the inscription is applied by burning, then any wood is suitable for this method...

What to do if you don’t know how to burn or cut? In the sense that you have never done this before, and you desperately and very urgently need a sign for a wooden bathhouse... Well, I really want to...

So, we will go the simplest and easiest way.

First we process a board about 30cm long

First you need to prepare the board:

find an unedged board with a thickness of 20.25 maximum 32mm. Let it be coniferous or birch: for our method the type of wood is not important.
choose a section about 30 cm long on it, on which there are 1-2 knots. They will also look beautiful.
Saw off the selected area from the board with a hacksaw or jigsaw.
On such a board, unedged edges will look very impressive. You just need to remove the bark from them with a hatchet and clean the surface of the residue with a sharp knife.
Using a sander, sand the surface until white on both sides of the board.
remove chamfers from sharp edges with the same grinder

Your board is ready for writing on it.

Now, on the prepared surface of the board, we will make the inscription “Bath” with our own hands from any twigs, for example, birch. You can take twigs from any tree that is available to you at the moment.

You can glue letters from twigs using a heat gun

Use pruning shears to cut a couple of branches as thick as your little finger. Large thickness will be inappropriate on a board with a height of 120-150mm. If you take a smaller thickness, it will look weak. Everything must be in accordance.
Cut sticks for letters from the branches. If the pruning shears cuts smoothly, like a razor, then there is no need to correct the ends of the branches. If the pruning shears crushes and “chews” a twig when pruning, then you need to correct all the ends with a sharp knife.
Make a word from the chopped sticks, placing them evenly on the board.
In the letters “B” and “I”, the rounded parts are best made from saw cuts. To do this, find a thick branch of suitable diameter, for example, old branches of an apple or cherry tree are often lying around in firewood. Saw off a couple of ovals from it with a jigsaw (obliquely) no thicker than the thickness of the letters. On the ovals, an outline with bark will be visible on the sides, which will volumetrically designate the round part of the letter.
stick a couple of letters onto the board using a heat gun.

It is advisable to first coat all surfaces of the board itself and the letter sticks with PVA. Using PVA, a couple of leaves are also glued on, which symbolizes a bath broom.

Finally, the sign for the bathhouse is varnished. The varnish makes the wood waterproof, which will be important if the sign is hung above the entrance door of the bathhouse from the outside.

And also, the varnish gives the wood a rich color and a wet effect.

It is better to varnish all surfaces

The varnish has one drawback: it takes a long time to dry. If there is a need to speed up the drying process, then you can place a sign for a bathhouse (made by yourself!!!) to the heating radiator, thereby increasing the temperature and reducing the drying time.

A sign for a wooden bathhouse with the inscription “Bathhouse” or “Steam Room” will be a wonderful gift for the person you are visiting to take a steam bath and enjoy the Russian bathhouse.

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How's the classic doing? “Whoever owns the information owns the world.” The conquest of the world must begin with a bathhouse. To do this, you need to make it as informative as possible. And bath signs will help in this important matter. Let's read.

Bath signs perform many functions:

They carry a purely informative load. This is especially true if the bathhouse has a large area, is divided into many separate functional areas and new visitors to it are a common occurrence. It can be assumed that the informative nature of signs in commercial ones is especially acute.
They allow you to focus on certain interior solutions, making the interior decoration of the bathhouse more complete, functional and complete.
Cool signs for the bathhouse can show those present that the owner of the steam room is a thorough, resourceful person and is not without a sparkling sense of humor, such that right now they would send him to KVN to replace Maslyakov.
In some cases, signs cover defects, technological holes or niches. It is especially pleasant and useful to hide under harmless planks a secret place in which two bottles of vodka, six bottles of beer and a dry ration in the form of a stick of dry-cured sausage and a liter jar of lightly salted cucumbers are stored.

Important! Naturally, you can do without signs altogether, but be mentally prepared for the fact that from time to time it will be necessary to organize full-scale search operations within the bathhouse using search dogs to find lost people.

What are they made of?

Modern technologies make it possible to use a wide variety of materials for the production and manufacture of such bath interior items.

Plastics

Plastic is increasingly becoming part of the everyday life of modern people. This is partly good, but in the case of a bathhouse, not so much. Plastic and polymer masses under conditions of elevated ambient temperatures can be deformed, and in some cases, release volatile substances into the space, which can pose a certain threat to the health of those present. At the same time, such products are inexpensive, accessible, and can have a wide variety of colors, shapes and textures.

Although, frankly speaking, plastic frankly makes the perception of the classic decoration of a traditional bathhouse somewhat atypical and primitive. Therefore, it is better to leave it for decorating the entrance doors of office and industrial buildings. Somewhat indirectly in the line of plastics is the so-called plexiglass or acrylate. This is a transparent material that visually resembles glass, but is more resistant to destruction.

Glass

Glass signs look much more presentable compared to plastic ones. They are not as easy to scratch as acrylate ones, they do not acquire a yellowish tint when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and do not deform when heated, but they are destroyed by direct mechanical impact. We admit that glass elements are perceived quite alienly in a Russian bathhouse with its overwhelming wooden interior. In the line of baths in the world, only the oriental bathhouse - the hammam - organically allows glass into its interior space, because even, in the vast majority of cases, they are made of glass.

Natural and artificial stone

Such products look expensive, solid and are not affected by high temperature and humidity. The last circumstance is very important in the conditions of an oriental bath, where humidity often approaches 100%. Among the disadvantages of such products, it is worth noting, first of all, the high cost of raw materials and the complexity of processing, which implies the manufacture of such products almost exclusively in specialized and properly equipped enterprises.

Metal

Iron is prone to corrosion in high humidity conditions and requires either a protective chemical coating or painting. Metal signs for the bathhouse, which will be located outside, are good. They can be quite massive and decorated with forged elements, which will give them additional charm, color and ambience. Inside, you can use elements made of stainless steel, bronze, copper, brass, titanium and aluminum.

If stainless steel and aluminum can bring some elements of government into the interior, just remember the office doors of Soviet clinics, research institutes and executive committees, then copper and bronze products look much better. Undoubtedly, they are expensive, especially when the body of the product is solid and made by casting with inherent decorative elements.

Attention! Copper, bronze, and all other metal signs should be used with caution in areas with high temperatures. The high thermal conductivity and heat capacity of metals can cause burns if there is direct contact between the body and such an object.
Tree

Wooden sauna signs are a classic of the genre. To what does it owe such a flattering assessment:

Wooden blanks are available and inexpensive. From different types of wood, you can perfectly combine elements and obtain products with different appearance, texture and properties. For example, an oak sign would be appropriate in a relaxation room, a linden sign in a steam room, a larch sign in the entrance, an alder sign in the washing room, and so on;

Wood goes well with the interior of the bathhouse;

Wood lends itself perfectly to processing even with hand tools from the arsenal of a home craftsman. It is beautifully decorated in such ways as toning, passivation and others;

Some types of wood are quite durable even in difficult conditions of the bath atmosphere;

Products made from such raw materials are resistant to mechanical damage, and operational defects can be easily eliminated with minor cosmetic repairs.

How they do it

Having understood the variety of raw materials for making signs, it is worth moving on to a variety of technologies. So, plastic products are produced:

By the casting method, when the plastic mass, under the influence of elevated temperature and pressure, acquires the required size, shape, texture. You can cast either unpainted raw materials or pre-tinted ones with special color-setting pigments. This also includes obtaining finished products on 3D printers;

One of the simplest methods of industrial and home production is to stick a design or font formed by a polymer film onto a plastic base. In production conditions, the film is cut with a plotter, at home - by hand;

Mechanical processing of a plastic workpiece, consisting of machine milling, engraving or carving with hand tools.

Glass plates are produced by etching or mechanical processing, which, due to the high hardness of the glass sheet, is performed with superhard materials or abrasives. As a result, in combination with painting with high-strength compounds, you can obtain a specified design, inscription, textured background or design. About the same can be said about natural stone, however, with the adjustment that etching in this case is practically not used, and the inscriptions and texture are set by mechanical action on the surface with cutters, milling cutters and other carbide or diamond tools.

A word from Experienced! It should be noted that in the case of glass and stone, casting is practically not used due to the complexity and energy consumption of the technology.

Metal products are obtained using the following method:

Stampings, if steel or its stainless steel analogue, titanium and other metals other than cast iron are used. This also includes metal forging, cold and hot forging;

Casting, if the raw materials are non-ferrous metals and cast iron;

Mechanical processing, which is widely applicable in all variety of products and is milling and engraving;

Erosion and electrochemical processing. It consists of imparting the necessary texture to a metal surface under the influence of electrical discharges in a conductor or dielectric medium. It is used extremely rarely due to the complexity of the equipment used and is used mainly in the production of forming punches and matrices for subsequent stamping of plates in a mass series;

Chemical etching, which involves dissolving an unprotected area of metal with chemically active substances;

Metal processing using innovative methods based on numerically controlled equipment; the executive body can be based on a plasma torch, a waterjet cutter, or a high-pulse laser. Like erosion, this is also quite an expensive pleasure and is justified in conditions of mass production of serial products;

Applying non-volumetric inscriptions using the coloring method is cheap and cheerful, but truly surprising visitors with an exclusive product is very difficult, although it is possible.

Wood is processed by high-speed machine or manual milling or hand carving, as well as thermal treatment, when a design, inscription, or texture is burned out with a hot nichrome thread or a low-pulse laser.

Workshop on the knee

In this section we make signs for the bathhouse with our own hands. If wooden signs carved for a bathhouse are a rather banal thing and their production is directly related to the hardness of the carver’s hand and certain carpentry skills, then you can make a copper tablet in a more pragmatic way. We don't need a cutter or unnecessary body movements. Citric acid will do all this for us.

This method comes from radio amateurs who have long used copper etching in the manufacture of printed circuit boards.
So, what do we need to make a wonderful copper plate:

Copper plate, 0.8 - 1.2 mm thick.

60 grams of food grade citric acid, 10 grams of table salt, 200 ml. hydrogen peroxide from the nearest pharmacy.

A glass or plastic container of sufficient capacity.

Warm soap solution to neutralize the acidic environment on the plate after the etching process is completed.

What is good about this method:

Does not leave dirty spots or streaks on the surface of the sign;

It is characterized by a high degree of process progress, even at room temperature; to further accelerate the reaction, the mixture can be carefully heated in a water bath to 60 - 65 degrees Celsius;

During its course there are no extraneous unpleasant odors, and the solution remaining after the reaction can be disposed of in the city sewer;

The composition is safe for clothing and skin, although this circumstance does not eliminate the safety requirements when handling chemicals in domestic conditions;

Finally, this is the cheapest and most accessible method of chemical etching of copper at home.

We note the sequence of actions:

We look for a suitable drawing or inscription and make a sketch on paper, according to the specific dimensions of the future sign.

We degrease the copper plate with acetone, dry it and carefully coat both sides with a one-component polyurethane varnish.

Using a thin metal rod, we scratch the varnish coating to the surface of the copper, transferring the outline of the future plate to the surface. It should be understood that the open areas will react and be etched in depth relative to the original plane of the plate. The areas protected by the varnish mask will remain in their original form. For ease of work, you can prepare several improvised scribers with different shapes of the working part: round, flat, trimmed, etc.

We immerse the prepared workpiece in the solution and monitor the progress of the reaction by the release of bubbles. The time spent in the solution is determined by the degree of etching of the pattern and is determined individually based on the result obtained.

At the end of the process, the plate is removed from the solution and thoroughly washed in a warm soapy solution, and then under running water. The varnish coating is removed mechanically.

If it is necessary to obtain a more textured surface of the plate, it can be lightly sautéed over the gas burner of a kitchen oven, and then sanded with sandpaper with a grit of 240 units.

Conclusion

Making a sign for a bathhouse with your own hands is an interesting creative process, the result of which can give pleasant emotions not only to the owner of the bathhouse, but also to his guests. Obviously, only the independent production of such bath items will be able to take into account all the individual features and embody a truly unique product that cannot be purchased in a retail chain. In the case of making copper plates, the only limiting factor will be the high price of the copper blank, but in this case you can turn to wood, chisels and a school burner, but we have enough wood.

As you know, a bath is not only a healthy procedure, but also a source of good mood. A good steam room and a cozy interior, as well as various decorative elements, contribute to creating a positive mood.

A well-chosen sign for a bath allows you to give the desired emotional mood. In addition, these simple elements not only decorate the environment, but also often have practical significance, because a person who comes to your bathhouse for the first time can easily navigate the layout of the premises in the building - just hang beautiful signs on each door.

Main types of signs

There are several main types, which differ in the material from which they are made and the method of applying inscriptions and drawings. Let's look at the main types and take a closer look at the optimal options.

Plastic signs

This type has the following features:

Low price and ease of manufacture.
A variety of types: inscriptions can be pasted on, can be appliques, it is possible to apply the inscription by engraving.

But there are also a number of disadvantages:

Plastic is not very suitable for rooms with high temperatures; it should never be used in steam rooms: in addition to losing its shape, the sign will emit harmful fumes.
Such signs look quite cheap and do not fit well into wooden interiors. They can be used in public baths as information signs on plastic doors.

Glass signs

This type is distinguished by the fact that glass products do not cover the texture of the base and seem to float in the air; in addition, you can create original lighting, and the sign will serve as an additional light source.

Plexiglas is often used, which is more flexible and reliable than its conventional counterpart. With its help, you can create three-dimensional products of various shapes.

The disadvantages of this type are the following:

Poor compatibility with the interior: a glass sign in a bathhouse looks alien and does not fit well into the decor.
The fragility of the material, of course, there is tempered glass and plexiglass, but still such elements create the illusion of unreliability.

As one of the options, you can note engraving on mirrors and glass doors, if available - these elements look much more attractive.

Metal signs

This type does not need any special introduction; the products can be an engraved plate, or can be made using artistic forging.

Due to the characteristics of the material, this type has the following features:

Metal sauna signs are most often used outside the building; for the durability of these elements, it is best to use stainless steel; it is durable and resistant to atmospheric influences.

The presence of metal elements in the steam room is strictly prohibited. You can get burned on metal; in addition, constant adverse effects significantly accelerate the corrosion processes of metal, so you should not use such signs even in the shower.
Metal does not go well with wooden rooms.

Wooden signs

Wood products deservedly enjoy the highest popularity due to a number of reasons:

Wood is excellent and gives it a feeling of warmth and coziness, the material emphasizes a healthy atmosphere due to its natural origin.
The excellent properties of wooden signs allow them to be used in all rooms: steam room, shower room, etc. They do not evaporate harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures, tolerate humidity well and do not heat up too much.
To order, you can make products of any size and with any pattern - such an element will become a truly unique decoration for your bathhouse.

Most often, wooden signs for a bathhouse are made in the following ways:

Applying inscriptions and images using laser engraving. This method is used by large companies that have the necessary equipment. Any design can be applied according to an individual sketch, the price is quite high.
Making a sign using a milling machine. This image is more prominent, which has a positive effect on the appearance. Quite a common method.

Manufacturing by burning method- the easiest way, such signs can be made with your own hands. To do this, you need a burning device and a board, onto which you must first apply any design you like.

Even your children will be able to take part in the manufacture of these products; the instructions that come with the device will allow you to quickly understand the nuances of its operation.

Tip: if you don’t know how to draw, you can find an image on the Internet or ask a friend to draw a picture, and then use a burner to repeat the drawing. You shouldn’t buy ready-made boards; it’s much better to make an original product.

Carved signs are the most interesting and original option, which is in the highest demand among buyers. This is not surprising, because each product is unique and inimitable, it remembers the hands of the master and conveys his mood. With the help of carving, you can even make three-dimensional figures, which allows you to turn any fantasies into reality.

Combined products, which combine different manufacturing methods. Separately carved letters are attached to a carved, flat or embossed base. Using this method you can get very original products, in addition, you can make signs yourself using this method, which will further increase their value to you.

Tip: remember that coniferous wood emits resin, so it is better to use deciduous wood in the bathhouse.

Conclusion

Signs are a pleasant addition to the interior; they create a good mood and serve as a kind of highlight that makes your bathhouse stand out from the rest. You can order products or make them yourself using one of the above methods ().

The video in this article will help you understand the intricacies of manufacturing.

The bathhouse is a great place to relax alone, with your family and a cheerful group of friends. However, in order for the bathhouse to be truly convenient to use, it must be equipped with a variety of accessories: hangers, buckets, lamps, etc. You can easily make all of the above and much more with your own hands from wood that is pleasant in its properties and easy to process.

Arriving at the bathhouse, the first thing you are faced with is the need to place your clothes. Nobody takes a steam bath dressed in the bathhouse! In a large rest room or dressing room, of course, you can put a full-fledged closet, but rarely does anyone do this, because... free space can be taken up with much more interesting and useful things.

The best solution to storing clothes and other accessories while visiting the steam room is a beautiful wall hanger. To make this attribute, you do not need to have extensive experience in carpentry work. Just do everything according to the simple step-by-step guide.

First step. Prepare a template according to the desired hanger shape. This product can have a wide variety of appearances, but the manufacturing procedure always remains almost the same. The template can be made from paper and then quickly and easily transferred to wood. If you plan to make several identical hangers, it is better to make a template from plywood or any other thin board.

Second step. Decide how many hooks your hanger should have. Optimally - from 2 to 4. Mark the places for attaching the hooks and drill holes in accordance with the markings. Also prepare the holes with which the hanger will be fixed to the wall.

Third step. Saw the blanks to assemble the base of the hanger. So, for a hanger with 4 hooks, a base measuring about 50x10 cm and a thickness of 2-3 cm is enough. Attach the pre-prepared template to the workpiece and start milling using a rolling cutter.

If you don’t have a cutter, you can simply sand the edges of the workpiece. If desired, you can round the edges of the base or give them any other shape.

Fourth step. Make hooks. You can use ready-made metal products and attach them to the base using self-tapping screws. But it is better that the hooks in the bathhouse are made of wood. You can take, for example, a shovel handle or a mop handle as a basis.

Cut the workpiece into the required number of parts. Make a neat semicircular groove in each part. A cutter will help you with this. All hooks should be the same length unless otherwise specified by the design of your hanger.

Fifth step. Grind the edges of the cuts made with sandpaper, or even better, with a sanding machine. For the base of the previously mentioned size, four hooks 4.5-5 cm long are enough.

Sixth step. Assemble the hanger. Pre-drill small holes for screws in the ends of the hooks. Lubricate the holes with wood glue and securely tighten the hooks to the base of the hanger using self-tapping screws.

Using these instructions, you can make a hanger of any shape and size, equipping it with the required number of hooks.

Do you want to decorate your bathhouse with a beautiful sign? No problem at all! You can make a beautiful outdoor or indoor sign yourself without much expense.

First step. Determine the optimal size of the future sign. To do this, first decide what exactly you will write on the sign, set the size of the future letters, and also think about how much free space should remain at the edges of the inscription.

Second step. Start making your sign. A carved product is best suited for a bath. Use a board with a thickness of 2 cm or more. You can buy a beautiful blank in a specialized store or make it yourself. The best materials to use are fiberboard or even solid wood. If they are not available, plywood will also work. Sand the base of the future sign with sandpaper.

Third step. Transfer the outlines of the letters to the workpiece. To do this, it is better to first prepare a stencil on paper, and then simply transfer the letters onto the wood. You can draw the inscription yourself or print it on your computer.

Fourth step. Cut out the sign text using a router. You can cut out the space around the letters or the inscription itself. If you don’t have the proper experience, first get your hands on some unnecessary piece of wood. This way you can choose the optimal cutting depth.

Bathhouse sign “Oak leaf”

Fifth step. Sand the sign and proceed to finishing. At the end, the sign can, for example, be varnished, treated with stain or other compositions suitable for wood finishing. At this point, be guided by your own preferences.

Sixth step. Hang a beautiful homemade sign in the right place. To fix the product on the wall, you can use nails, brackets and even a simple rope. Here, decide for yourself which mounting option will be more appropriate and convenient.

It is impossible to imagine a traditional Russian bath without a comfortable wooden bucket. There is absolutely nothing complicated in making this bathhouse accessory with your own hands. You just need to prepare the necessary supplies and carefully complete each stage of the work.

Bucket making kit

Planks. It is better that they are made of linden or oak. Planks about 40 cm long will be enough. 1 cm thick will be enough.
The blank for making the bottom is about 2 cm thick. Select a diameter of about 25 cm.
Metal hoops in the amount of two pieces.
Carpentry supplies.

First stage. Pre-process the bucket bottom blank. You need to carefully grind off the end of the bottom in a circle. A stitch to a depth of about 1 cm will be sufficient.

Second phase. Prepare the recesses in the boards. The recesses should be located in the places of future attachment to the bottom and have a depth of about 0.4 cm and a width of about 1.2 cm. You will later install the bottom of your homemade wooden bucket into these recesses.

Third stage. Process the longitudinal edges of wooden blanks using a plane. It is necessary to process at such an angle that in the future it will be possible to tightly fit the boards to the diameter of the bottom. Adjust the planks to each other. Secure the boards around the bottom with a metal hoop. For reliable fixation, a hoop about 5 cm wide will be enough. Place the second hoop about 10 cm below the top border of the homemade bucket.

Fourth stage. Make a handle. To make it, you can use, for example, a thick rope. Metal handles are not used in the bathhouse. They will become very hot in the steam room and may cause harm to visitors. If you wish, you can make a full-fledged wooden handle.

After assembling the bucket, fill it with water. Water will begin to pour out of the cracks - this is a natural process, because... Wood needs some time to absorb moisture and swell. Very soon the cracks will disappear on their own, and you will be able to use the bucket you made yourself.

Using the same technology, you can assemble wooden troughs, ladles and other accessories necessary for a bathhouse.

To maintain the interior of the bathhouse in the same style, it is recommended to make even such small things as lamp shades from wood. Even the simplest grille around a lighting fixture will add a special charm to the environment.

First stage. Assemble the frame for the lampshade. You can give it any desired shape. Semicircular and rectangular shades are best suited for wall lamps. The corner lighting fixture can be equipped with a trapezoidal or triangular shade.

Assemble the frame from wooden slats. Tighten the base to the desired shape in any convenient way, for example, using corners or a tongue-and-groove connection.

Second phase. Prepare the slats. Select the length in accordance with the dimensions of the base. Round off the sharp edges of the slats and carefully sand the surface of the wood to give the shade a more elegant appearance.

Third stage. Attach the prepared planks to the wood using self-tapping screws. You need to fasten it from the inside of the lampshade.

At this point, the process of making a wooden bathhouse lamp is considered complete. All that remains is to put it on the lighting fixture. If desired, you can varnish the product or process it in another way.

The key to successful operation of a bathhouse is the presence of high-quality ventilation. Typically, the ventilation device comes down to creating a pair of ventilation holes. To prevent various kinds of rodents and other third-party objects from entering through these openings, they are covered with ventilation grilles.

You can make grilles for bath ventilation yourself, but it is best to make them from wood.

First stage. Assemble the ventilation grille frame. To make the frame, use wooden slats. Traditionally, gratings are made in rectangular or square shapes. Select the size according to the dimensions of the ventilation hole. It is necessary that the grate extends beyond the boundaries of the hole by several centimeters on each side.

Fasten the slats to form a frame. You can use any convenient fastener.

Second phase. Place slats on the frame. Select the number, width of the slats and the pitch between them so that the grille looks beautiful and nothing interferes with air circulation. Usually a step of 3-5 mm is taken. Use self-tapping screws to attach the slats to the frame.

Third stage. Secure the finished grille to the ventilation hole. Make sure that the grille is secured evenly in all positions. To attach the grille to the wall, you can use the same screws or other available fasteners.

Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated in making bath accessories yourself. We have presented to your attention instructions for assembling the most useful and necessary devices in the bathhouse. Follow the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - DIY bath accessories

For some reason, many people believe that a beautiful painting should only decorate the living room, bedroom or kitchen, while others... Even if you have problems with wood carving, you can find an easy alternative - cutting out panels from plywood.

Wooden signs with drawings and inscriptions on a bath theme will decorate the interior of the bathhouse.

Sequence of carving

1. Step one. Start of action

To start implementing my plan, I liked this board - a piece of coniferous wood and a standard size in the well-known Leroy Merlin store. Waldemar writes:

2. Step two. Marking, cutting

Visually, I divided the length of the board into three parts, necessary and corresponding to the products.

Made the cut according to the planned drawings.

3. Step three. Drawing.

The Internet is very rich in the selection of necessary images... and, having decided on the choice, I transfer the necessary part of the drawing to my object. This is done by hand by me, which creatively excludes copyright, because... in the process, the drawing becomes not an exact copy, but only a part of a part of an image, while the author’s idea acquires its original outline.

An oak leaf can be copied from a tree or from a herbarium

4. Step four. Thread.

Now you can start carving. In this process I use three types of cutters: Tatyanka chisels and one Swiss chisel.

Using a joint, I make cuts along the outlined contours of the design, and with a chisel I cut to fit the contour, thereby highlighting the design above the background.

After giving the product a decorative volume, it is necessary to sand the carved surface (sandpaper No. 180, No. 220 is used)

I add pairs in the form of clouds to the main design, which are subsequently cut out with a joint and a chisel, and I sand the clouds.

At this stage, the carving work on the tablet is completed and you can begin the final steps, namely coating and giving the product a noble appearance.

5. Step five. Stain, varnish.

I apply the stain with a brush in one layer over the entire surface and shade the recesses with a second layer of stain. After drying, I erase the protrusions of the design with sandpaper, resulting in a three-dimensional image effect.

After applying the varnish with a balloon at a distance of 10-15cm. from the drawing (I use a polyurethane spray bottle with furniture varnish) the plate acquires a shiny surface that is pleasant to the touch and look. At this point, the “Bathhouse” sign will be ready for use after the varnish has dried (12 hours). And we will proceed to the second part of the Leroy Marlin board, on which we will cut out an equally original sign in addition.

6. Step six. Decree!

I gradually transfer the desired image onto the board. To translate a drawing, a picture is used that is printed on a printer to fit the size of the board and translated directly using carbon paper.
After which I cut out the applied design as well as the “bathhouse in step four” with a joint and a chisel. Then sand it with sandpaper.

But the inscription under the word “decree” is cut out with a pointer with a triangular tip, the result is an in-depth text that you can not sand with sandpaper and go straight to the stain-varnish coatings.

6. Step seven. The third part of the board.

I use the burner on the third part.

But initially the design is cut into the depth of the surface using a jamb by trimming each cut.

After cutting out the inscription inside the surface with a jamb cutter, an original font was obtained, which is burned out with a “stayer” burner like a pencil.

Three signs for your favorite bathhouse are ready! Enjoy Your Bath!