How to make a ceiling of drywall with your own hands - step by step instructions and tips from the masters. Drywall suspended ceiling - all you need to know to do the work yourself.

Did you really want to make a drywall ceiling yourself? People who do repairs do it quickly and automatically. If you are a beginner in such matters and you would like to independently make the installation of suspended ceilings from plasterboard, then the installation instructions will help. Our tips on how to learn this through photo and video tutorials. If something is not clear, then ask in the comments, we will answer.

Do-it-yourself single-level suspended ceiling

Drywall ceilings have a number of undeniable achievements. It hides all the flaws of your ceiling (cracks, bumps, etc.). Under such a ceiling it is very convenient to hide the wires. And also, the most important advantage is a smooth surface.

Drywall ceilings are very diverse and numerous in terms of design. You can make such a ceiling from GKL for every taste. There is no limit to choice and fantasy, they have different colors, there are single-level ones,. Plasterboard ceilings allow you to improve the lighting in your home or apartment and give it originality and elegance. It’s very convenient to place light on suspended ceilings in a way that is convenient for you, and that you like to look at it. There is an opportunity to spend to save yourself from unnecessary noise.

Such a ceiling is suitable for any room, so to speak “universal”. You can make such a ceiling even in the bathroom, first you need to process the sheets with a special composition that repels water. Now we will consider how to do the installation of a ceiling made of drywall with your own hands. For this, a kind of photo instruction is presented below, we tried to make it as clear and simple as possible. You will be available on your own.

The procedure for the manufacture of plasterboard ceiling

Brief designations and concepts when installing a suspended ceiling from hl.

There are only two technologies for mounting walls with sheets. This is a technology called Knauf and Giprock. You can see them and evaluate them yourself. Experienced craftsmen prefer the Giprok technology, since our suspensions and profiles, so to speak, the basis of which the entire supporting structure of the suspended ceiling consists and which are subsequently actually attached, the drywall sheets, to put it mildly, are made not according to European standards, as well as much ... In a word, in order to make good and high-quality suspended ceilings, you need to turn your wits on.

The design of your GKL ceiling, first of all, must be solid. And all other parts (mounts and suspensions) must be very well fixed to the base at such a distance so as not to allow the sheets of drywall to sag. Because it is the sagging that leads to the appearance of cracks between the joints of the sheets and the appearance of knolls. For the fastening of drywall, you need to select high-quality and technological.

Materials and tools for the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling

Knauf direct suspension

Self-tapping screws that will be needed

First of all, these are special suspensions (photo on the left), which should be attached to the base. So that they are firmly and securely fastened, they use the so-called dowel nails (photo on the left) or metal anchor wedges. More preferably a dowel-nail. Profiles with a width of 70 mm are attached to the suspensions using the so-called “kids” shown in the figure below under the number 1 (screws with a gimlet for metal, they are better “included” in the profile). Then there are the drywall sheets themselves with a width of 12.5 mm, they are screwed with the screws indicated in the photo on the right under the number 2. Measure each piece yourself, depending on the size of the ceiling. You will also need a laser level. And do not forget about tape measure, pencil, puncher and screwdriver, you can not do without it. In the video tutorial below, everything is clearly shown. Calculate the required number of sheets and profiles, components, will help our free.

Ceiling mount

DIY installation example of a one-level suspended ceiling

First you need to draw a line for the initial profile, for this use the laser or water level to help. The distance from the ceiling should be 10–20 cm so that you can hide the wiring, communications, etc. Level up. Mark the outline of this line with a pencil on the wall. Then attach the guides around the perimeter of the room along this horizontal line with dowels in increments of 350-500 mm from each other.

Checking the flatness of the ceiling

The next step will be the marking of the ceiling under the main bearing rails. First you need to draw parallel lines of more than 125 cm, and this is somewhere half the sheet of drywall. Drywall sheets will be fastened with a small gap between them, and when we putty, so that we could fill with gypsum mixture to seal the joints between the sheets. The main profiles will pass along the edges of the sheet and in the middle, keep in mind. And along these lines we will fix the suspensions on metal anchor-wedges or dowels with a size of 400 mm.

Now you can take the profile guides and insert them into the starting frame, which we secured around the perimeter of the walls of the room. The only thing that is not advisable to do is to insert them close to the wall, you need to leave a small gap so that there is no deformation of the ceiling from various unforeseen circumstances, like thermal expansion. Therefore, we insert guides into our suspensions. We attach the guides to the suspensions with self-tapping screws for metal, 2 on each side of the profile. Be sure to check horizontality with a long level or with a laser.

Connection option without crab

Next, the installation of a ceiling made of drywall with your own hands, involves marking and inserting longitudinal profiles (photo from the right). It is recommended to look at the specification for the transverse installation of drywall sheets of about 600 mm, and for longitudinal - 400 mm. You can choose the design option yourself and watch the video. Here we look at the transverse mount. You can easily cut the longitudinal profiles from the rails with metal scissors to the length you need. Then insert the longitudinal profiles between the rails also in increments of about 500 mm. They should be positioned so that they do not end up on the fastening points of the guide profiles with suspensions.

Start profile connection

Connection to the main profile using crab

Longitudinal profiles are attached to the guides, using special crabs, photo on the left. To make the construction more robust, use a different construction for fastening the longitudinal profiles. Two segments are attached to the supporting profile and inserted longitudinal into them. It is this method that strengthens the structure very well. You can fix the longitudinal profile using suspensions, approximately in the middle of each.

We fix the sheets of drywall to the ceiling frame on our own

Ready and insulated frame

So the main frame for the GKL ceiling is ready. Now you need to sheathe it with sheets of drywall. Before this, process each sheet from the side of the ceiling, this will improve waterproofing, after fastening, process from the back side. Step away from the wall a few millimeters so that the drywall breathes. Attach the sheets across the longitudinal profiles. Attach the first sheet from the wall, and the next one already starting from the first longitudinal profile. Cover the distance (between the wall and the longitudinal profile) with half the sheet. Thus we pass the entire ceiling. Fix the sheets of drywall to all the laid profiles with self-tapping screws for metal in increments of about 15-20 cm.

Hats of self-tapping screws do not need to be heated very much, they should be almost flush, but in order not to stick out above the drywall plane. A screwdriver with a hardness limiter will help you with this, set it in such a way as to achieve the operation of the limiter on an easy deepening of the self-tapping screw. Make a gap between sheets of 2-3 mm, which is useful for further sealing joints with gypsum mixture.

That's all. It remains only to gloss over the joints that formed between the sheets. It is necessary to pre-pass it with a primer, when puttying, you may need to tighten the protruding screws. To close joints well, use special mixtures or gypsum mixture. A sticky fiberglass reinforcing mesh is imposed on it. And flatten everything with a spatula so that it does not stick out. When everything is dry, even out all the patches that have been plastered over with smudges. In the same way, the gaps that are formed between the wall and the drywall sheets are processed. The ceiling is completely plastered with gypsum mixture, try to do it without streaks, if you do it for painting, but if it is under wallpaper, then this may not be visible.

So do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of drywall made by yourself. Then you can do anything with it. Glue wallpaper, paint and so on. If you did everything right, then the ceiling will serve you for a very long time. Ceilings are multi-level and it is written about it. Now read the video installation instructions to consolidate knowledge before practice.

Video how to do the installation of a false ceiling yourself

Video: plasterboard ceiling, installation sequence, all the secrets. Plasterboard ceiling.

A simple way to independently mount the hl sheet on the ceiling without helpers

Video: # 1. plasterboard ceiling, the secret of mounting alone. One man drywall installation.

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Vedilo (professional builder-repairman). Yuri writes:

In old houses during construction, little attention was paid to beauty, since the main task was to build quickly and reliably. Therefore, ceilings, as a rule, have different irregularities: protruding beams in wooden floors and differences in joints between plates in reinforced concrete floors, as well as various distortions and grooves. It is good if the defects on the ceiling are not large and they can be eliminated with putty, but what can be done if it is impossible to putty them? And if this is a new building and you need to close the draft ceiling? Here, sheets of drywall that have long been known to us will help us out. From them we will make a suspended ceiling from gypsum plasterboard sheets of gypsum plasterboard, which will close all defects, and it will be possible to hide electrical wiring and other communications behind it. Let us in this article examine in detail what we will need to install such a drywall ceiling with our own hands and the sequence of its installation from the marking of the ceiling to putty. We will also consider the technology and device for installing the ceiling from GKL in a step-by-step instruction with a photo.

And in the process, we can not do without such a tool as:

Impact electric drill or hammer drill
Tape Measure, Pencil and Building Level
Water construction level (transparent hose 5-10 meters long)
Cordless or electric screwdriver
Ladder
Thread or fishing line (preferably yellow)
Metal scissors and construction knife

Material for work:

Profile ceiling on gypsum plasterboard CD-60
Drywall guide profile UD-30
Suspension Plates
Wood screws 32 mm
Dowels 60 to 40 mm
Self-tapping screws for metal 10 mm (fleas)
Ceiling Drywall Sheets (GKL) 9 mm Thick
Screws for metal 25 mm
Fiberglass Reinforced Tape (Serpyanka)

Stage 1. Marking for mounting profiles

How to make a ceiling of drywall with your own hands? To begin with, we need to make the ceiling come out skewed and strictly horizontal. To get this you need to beat out the zeros of the room. To do this, use the water level. It’s difficult for one person to make such markup, so ask someone for help. In any corner of the room with a pencil, put a mark at a height of one meter. We apply a water level to this mark so that the water level coincides with our mark. And your assistant at this time should move from corner to corner of the room with the opposite end of the hoses. In each corner he will have to leave a mark at the water level. At the same time, you need to make sure that your mark does not go astray! All these marks (zeros) in the corners of the room will be the horizontal level of the new ceiling. We measure the same distance from zeros with a tape measure up to the height at which we want to make our ceiling from drywall. In this case, it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of drywall 9 millimeters and the thickness of the guide profile ud 30 millimeters. Also do not forget that the minimum that will have to deviate from the draft ceiling is 10 cm, because the standard built-in lamp will take 10 centimeters in height.

Stage 2. Installation of the ceiling frame

To begin with, around the perimeter of the whole room at the height at which we decided to make the ceiling of gypsum plasterboard with our own hands, we need to nail the ud guide profile to the wall using a puncher and dowel nails 60 by 40 millimeters in increments of 450-500 millimeters from each other .

Having fixed the guiding profile ud, we take up the ceiling profile cd. First, you need to cut it to the length or width of the room, then you can choose it yourself, as you prefer. The main thing is that it fits easily into the ud guide profile, if it is too long, it will begin to bend. If too short, then it will not hold. Ideally, it should be 5 millimeters shorter than the size from one guide profile ud to the opposite.

Having cut out the cd ceiling profile of the required length, it must be inserted perpendicularly into the ud guide profile. Between themselves, they are twisted with special metal screws, popularly called fleas. The cd profile is placed every 60 or 40 centimeters, this is necessary so that the distance is a multiple of 120 centimeters. Since this is the width of the drywall sheet. And the joints will fall with this arrangement strictly on the profile.

In order for our ceiling not to sag, but to be even, we need to fasten the cd ceiling profiles to the draft or old ceiling with the help of mounting plates-suspensions. Strictly over the profile to the ceiling we fasten the suspensions with self-tapping screws 30 mm long or if you have reinforced concrete floors, then 60 x 6 mm dowels. Suspensions are placed on each cd profile after 50-60 centimeters.

Then, through the middle of the room across the cd profiles, you need to pull a thread (preferably black is better visible) attaching it to the extreme opposite profiles ud, which are screwed to the wall. By bending the suspension plate to the bottom, with one hand we hold the cd profile so that it barely touches the stretched thread and fix it to the suspension by the familiar flea on one and the other side. Note that you need to fasten with a dowel or a self-tapping screw closer to the edge of the bend of the profile so as to prevent sagging under the weight of the drywall sheets.

Using this method, it is possible to make the suspensions longer or shorter and the GKL ceiling can be raised or lowered to the desired distance.

Note: During operation, make sure that other profiles do not touch the thread, as they may distort it.

Very often, cd profiles are installed not only along the sheets of drywall, but also across. Practice has shown that transverse profiles should be set only when installing multi-level ceilings. In this case, such a profile must be placed only at the joints of drywall sheets. Thus, you can significantly save on material, and you will also have to refuse from buying crabs in this case (special fasteners designed to connect the longitudinal with the transverse profile).

Stage 3. Screwing drywall sheets to the ceiling frame

If the suspension plates are too long, then this does not matter. They again need to be wrapped up so that they do not interfere with fastening the sheets. Before proceeding with the sewing of sheets of drywall to the ceiling frame, you need to think about the future lighting of the room! Consider where the lamps will be and in what quantity, since the wiring for them needs to be done before screwing the GCR.

Before starting the installation of drywall sheets, they must be acclimatized in the room for a couple of days, at least.

The sheets are screwed to the profiles with metal screws 25 mm long. On one sheet, about 50 pieces of screws with a pitch of 15-20 centimeters. Sheets need to be fastened along longitudinal profiles. Attach the first sheet from the wall, and the next one in order next to each other.

Note:the requirement is to leave gaps on the walls. They should be only a few millimeters. Due to this, the design will be able to breathe. Make gaps between sheets of 2 - 3 mm as well, for further sealing of these joints with putty.

Stage 4. Final work

If you have already screwed all the sheets, then before filling the ceiling with GKL, you need to do not a big, but very important thing! It is necessary to close up the joints of the sheets well, while using gypsum putty and a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. Flatten everything with a putty knife, it is also necessary to gloss over and all the self-tapping screws are done because when the putty dries up, indentations form in these places. When everything dries up, it will be possible to proceed to the general filling of the ceiling.

Thrifty owners are increasingly striving to make high-quality repairs on their own and therefore the question arises of how to make a ceiling from drywall with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions are given in the material below, and photos will help you understand the intricacies of the process. Even with minimal construction skills, you can transform your home if you approach the matter responsibly.

DIY ceiling installation: preparatory phase

Ceiling repair begins with the preparation of the necessary set of tools, the acquisition of building materials and marking.

Tool Material List

Before going to the store, you need to make careful measurements of the parameters of the room, namely the width and length of the ceiling. This will help determine the amount of necessary materials:

Drywall. The standard sheet width is 120, and the length can be either 250 or 300 cm (here, when choosing, you need to navigate according to the measurements taken on the ceiling). The optimal sheet thickness for such work is 9 mm, while remember that a special moisture-proof green gypsum board is designed for kitchens and bathrooms.
Wireframe elements. This includes 60/27 ceiling profiles, guide profiles 28/27, straight suspensions and single-level connectors (the so-called "crabs).
Materials for mounting the frame and sheathing his drywall - screws and screws with dowels.
Finishing will require putty, mounting mesh and sandpaper.

To correctly markup, and then mount the ceiling from drywall, you need a certain set of tools . For measuring work need a laser level, tape measure and square. Directly installation impossible without a hammer drill, screwdriver, special knife, plane with an inclined blade and scissors for metal. And at the last stage for decoration need a spatula, roller and brushes.

This set of tools is useful if in the future you decide to create two-level plasterboard ceiling (instructions and video can be found).

Marking

This phase begins with measuring the heights of all four corners. The lowest of these is a reference point that defines the contour and height of the future ceiling. When making the initial mark, do not forget about the need availability of inter-ceiling space (not less than 5 cm). After all, there you can place wiring, elements of decorative lamps and various engineering communications.

After setting the laser level to the starting point marked the mounting points of the ceiling rails.

Marks are made directly on the ceiling so that each sheet drywall was fixed screws on 3 profiles.

That is, with a sheet width of 120 cm, the step between the ceiling profiles should be 60 cm. After applying all the markings, you can proceed to the direct installation.

How to make a wireframe

Along the perimeter of the room in the walls on the markings are made holes in increments of about 50 cm for dowels (where they fit).

	Then to the walls guide profile attached with screws. It is possible to drill concrete under the expansion bolt shield directly through PN and then fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Finishing the ceiling zone traditionally plunges the homeowner into the abyss of doubt and contradiction. Today, the variety of materials and technologies, design capabilities are so diverse that it is quite difficult to decide on something specific.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is one of the materials noted by the high popularity of the Russian population. Certainly have drywall ceilings and disadvantages, because nothing ideal exists in the world. Let us recall them without secrets, so that your decision to suspend drywall over your head is conscious:

lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling film);
quite high combustibility (in case of fire, drywall supports the flame);
incompatibility with water (drywall is contraindicated in basements, in bathrooms, etc.).

However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with fire resistance and water resistance of some modifications, addressed specifically to rooms with high humidity and an increased fire factor. Stores offer standard, moisture-proof and fire-resistant drywall.

Benefits:

Tools and materials for upcoming work

Prepare your tools in advance so you don’t get distracted or fuss. The list of names of different masters is somewhat different, because in repair and construction business, as you know, a lot of things are solved by dexterity, the ability to use what is, not to depend on the frills. Nevertheless, there is the main thing without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:

drywall;
suture tape ("sickle");
guide profiles;
powerful dowels for fastening profiles to walls;
ceiling profiles;
self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
roulette;
construction knife;
hammer;
ceiling suspensions;
anchor bolts for mounting suspensions to the ceiling;
docking "crabs";
safety glasses, anti-dust mask (respirator);
laser or hydraulic level for measuring the entire room;
bubble level (ideal if its length is 2 meters) for measuring sections;
screw driver;
drill with a drill (it will be required for dowel fastening of profiles to walls and ceiling);
scissors for metal.

This is the minimum that is indispensable. Also, the list may include additional elements, taking into account the features of the "native" ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the ceilings is solid concrete of a rough mix, in which there are solid stones that interfere with the normal drilling of holes for fixing screws. Or, let's say you want to install a complex multi-level ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the bearing profiles at different heights. And so on.

Frame preparation - measurements and fasteners

We work with a guide frame

Step 1. We find the lowest angle in the room, measuring all the angles for this, and ideally the center as well. We use roulette. In the corner, which will be the lowest, put a label:

7-9 cm from the ceiling, if you plan to install built-in lights;
4-5 cm if there are no built-in lights.

Step 2. We arm ourselves with the hydraulic level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark on the lowest corner. Then, using the hydraulic level, we put several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point on each corner, connect them together - draw with a pencil or chalk.

Use a ruler, perfectly flat block or a stretched cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option is without drawing, and point out the guide line for attaching the profile.

Step 3. We fix the guide profile on the wall. If joining seams are supposed at the runs between the corners (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to insure the further “detour” of neighboring fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, sheet metal or plastic - and, laying them on top of the butt joint, attach to the walls with high-strength wall plugs.

Sometimes in such situations they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not in all regions stores sell such goods. The same thing (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) is done at the corners of the profile.

Video - Mounting the frame from profiles and suspensions

We work with the main ceiling profile

Step 1. The most common drywall dimensions are 1.2x2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - so that each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk in lines with 40-centimeter steps.

Step 2. In places of the transverse junction of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m), we install jumpers from the same profile. With non-standard sizes of drywall, accordingly, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. The joints are fixed with “crabs”.

Step 3. We determine the location of the suspensions: from the first wall the distance is 25 cm, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling zone. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling with anchor bolts (dowels are not suitable, because they do not have threads and under the weight of the structure they will inevitably slow down “pulling out” due to attraction to the ground).

Step 4. We fix the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Now our framework is ready.

Initially, remember the important nuances: the drywall is sensitive to deformations, temperature and humidity changes during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and before starting the installation work, the material must be “aged” for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this adapts the structure of the drywall to local temperature and moisture conditions.

Sequencing:

calculate the consumption of material in advance;
we cut the necessary details for those places where less than a whole sheet is required;
remove the chamfer at the edge with a construction knife so as to ensure good penetration of the putty into the gap;
we start fastening the sheets to the ceiling profile from the wall and from the corner, we place the screw from the edge 10-15 cm and 20 cm apart;

Attention! We screw the hats of the screws in the nests, check by touch. On adjacent sheets, the screws are placed not against each other, but apart;

make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
make sure that the sheet is joined to the sheet with a shift of at least one cell;
make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.

The final stage

Seams must be given special attention, because the appearance of the future ceiling depends on the quality of their closure.

Important points:

When working with dust, primer, putty and paint do not forget to use protective equipment. Wear glasses, a respirator, a mask. Precautions will preserve your health and enhance the joy of the plasterboard ceiling that you install yourself.

Drywall ceilings are a simple and economical way to transform an apartment. Reliability of the design is verified by many years of experience. The advantages, as the same experience shows, have a lot of ceilings. Of great importance is the fact that making gypsum plasterboard ceilings is simple, and a layman can also cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create a unique design, boldly using different lighting options, and curved shapes.

Begin preparations by creating a project. Check how many levels the ceiling will have. It depends on it . It is necessary in advance to think over the layout of lighting fixtures and additional illumination. Perhaps for laying wiring there will be a need to ditch the ceiling and walls. Only after that it is possible to draw up a project, carry out calculations and go to the store for materials.

Instruments

Without reliable tools it will not work. It depends on them and the time to complete the work. Before purchasing materials, check if you have all the tools. It’s better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.

From the little things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drills of different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, electrical tape and paint rollers.

Materials

Drywall can have a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. But if there is a project, for them the best drywall is 6.5 mm. If you get thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means that it needs more profiles and mounts.

Important.
Drywall is suitable for living quarters with GKL marking.
For the kitchen or bathroom is needed moisture resistant material.

Profiles need two types:

Guide (PN) measuring 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
Ceiling (PP) dimensions 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Drywall sheets are attached directly to this profile.

Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and guide UD

For fastening the ceiling profiles to the draft ceiling, U-shaped suspensions are used. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped - the most reliable. For the ceiling, it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are required for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall. At the joints of the profiles, a connector (crab) is used.

At the final stages, putty is necessary for the treatment of joints and paint.

Stages of ceiling installation

Working with drywall involves a lot of dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, you need to cover it with film. It is better to make furniture, in extreme cases, tightly wrap it with film. The rough ceiling must be plastered and primed. Pieces of plaster falling on a suspended ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been carried out to the lighting installation sites.

1. Measurement and marking

Ceiling height depends on the type of lighting fixtures. If a chandelier is supposed, 5 cm is enough. For you need about 10 cm free space. If you plan to hide communications on the ceiling, the distance can reach 40 cm.

On the walls under the ceiling, it is necessary to apply a perfectly even horizontal line. On this line you will fasten the guide profile. To determine this line, you need a laser level. You can use a spirit level or rule. The line must be closed at exactly the point from which it began. The slightest bias is unacceptable. In the corners, the level must be placed on the surface of the walls, and in the corners of the spreader. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.

Horizontal marking around the perimeter - is controlled by the level, then the mounting points of the guides are marked

After completing the horizontal layout, proceed to the ceiling. The points of attachment of the suspensions are marked and lines are drawn along which the ceiling profile will be mounted. As a result, you should get a grid with squares, the side of which is 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Near the walls, most likely, squares will not work. Your task is to make the cell sizes symmetrical near each wall.

2. Mounting the frame

The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. For fastening one element, a minimum of 4 dowel-nails must be used. It is advisable to glue the profile at the place of contact with the wall with sealing tape. The profile should be clearly marked on the markup, the elements fit snugly against each other. Installation is best done in the classical way, in which the dowel is screwed first, and then a screw is installed in it.

The next stage is the fastening with the help of dowels-nails to the draft ceiling of U-shaped suspensions. The interval between them in one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of the profiles, suspensions are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension must be bent as much as possible. In the process of fastening, they should not bend, otherwise the profile cannot be fixed exactly.

The ceiling profile should be 1 cm shorter than the ceiling width. If your room has a width of less than 3 m (standard profile length), cut off the excess with scissors for metal. If the room is large, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this, you need to buy special fasteners.

Important! If you increase the ceiling profile, the joints at two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are fixed with suspensions.

The sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:

You need to start from the corners of the room. A partner takes the rule and sets it in a diagonal angle. The other end of the rule will support the profile so that it does not bend. So your partner will maintain a profile exactly along the line of guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the suspensions of 4 screws and to the guides.
The center is also mounted on suspensions. If it is impossible to use the rule as in the corner, apply it exactly from the start profile, be sure to check the line with the level. The extra length of the suspensions bends up.
The second profile is attached in the same way. After this, everything should be repeated near the opposite wall.
The central profiles are fastened in the same way, aligning with the already installed ones.

Further, perpendicular to the main profiles, jumpers are installed. The distance between them should be 60 cm, that's why you broke the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into segments with the required length. At the joints, crabs are installed, fastened to 4 screws, the antennae are bent. Jumpers with screws are attached to the antennae of the crab. From below, jumpers do not need to be fastened to the profile; during the installation of drywall, they will be fixed.

Photo: insulation of a suspended ceiling with mineral wool

The free space between the draft and the false ceiling can be filled with heat and sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles of a larger size than the cells in the frame, and fill the space, additionally fixing with suspensions.

3. Installation of drywall

Drywall sheets must lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to the desired size with a construction knife. The chamfer before starting the installation must be cut off at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. The barbs that form when cut are removed with a planer. The holes for the fixtures are made using crowns after careful measurements.

Sheets need to begin to mount from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets should be screwed at different levels. The step between the screws is 20 cm. The hat should be fully recessed, it is advisable to check each screw by touch.
The sheet is attached to both the guide and the ceiling profiles.
It is impossible to dock gypsum board along the perimeter. A clearance of 2 mm must be left.
Between themselves, the sheets must be placed in a run, shifting at least one cell.