The dimensions of the mounting rails on the side of the cabinet will be given taking into account the possible interchangeability of the drawers. Calculation and example are given on the basis of three drawer kitchen cabinets-sections (Fig. 2.). In the end, a fully parametric model of such a cabinet with all accessories will be given, for a more detailed acquaintance. Model PRO100 in the format * .sto.

All calculations are made on chipboard 16 mm thick.

Drawer length.

  Fig.3

where, NL is the nominal length of the guide. SKL - drawer length. SKL \u003d NL - 10 mm.

The width of the box.

  Fig. 4

where, LW is the internal size of the cabinet (between the sidewalls). SKW - the length of the front or rear part of the box (provided that this part is placed between its sidewalls).

Drawer Height

  Fig.5

Scheme for calculating the height of the box.

The practical part. Calculation and installation.

In practical use, we move a little from the catalog schemes, but we will make a scheme for ourselves. See fig. 6. Black numbers  - dimensions of the body, sidewalls of drawers, facades and gaps. Red   - dimensions for mounting rails. In blue   - the size of the front and rear panels of the drawers. Green   - Clearances of the box body between other parts.

Fig.6

With this scheme, the lower and middle drawers are interchangeable.

Scheme of the box for tandems.

Fig. 7

Blum catalog offers to make boxes with a groove under the fiberboard in all four parts, and then make cuts in the front and rear parts for the clips. What for? It is enough to make only the grooves in the sides of the box, and the front and rear walls, respectively, reduce in height.

Fig. 8

We take the length of the side of the box, as in the catalog. Those. 500 mm - 10 mm \u003d 490   mm

Then, dimensions of drawer parts:

1. The sides of large boxes are 490 x 210 mm.
2. Front and rear parts of large drawers - 326 x 194 mm.
3. The sides of the upper drawer are 490 x 100 mm.
4. Front and rear parts of the upper drawer - 326 x 84 mm.

Depth of pedestal.

When mounting to the side wall of the cabinet, the guides are attached by 4 mm. from the front edge of the sidewall. From here minimum  the depth dimension (width of the side part of the cabinet) should be \u003d Guide length + 4 mm. For convenience, the depth of the cabinet should be considered as follows: Guide length + 10 mm. In our version, with a guide length of 500 mm. the depth of the cabinet will be \u003d 510 mm.

Assembly.

1. Mounting rails.

2. Assembly of boxes.

  Cabinet with drawers in tandem assembly.

Total. General formulas.

1. Side Cabinet =   Guide Length Tandem + 10 mm.
2. Drawer side =   Guide Length Tandem -   10 mm.
3. =   cabinet width -   32 mm. (sidewall thickness) -   42 mm. (catalog size).
4. Drawer side height (for facades from 200 mm high.) =   Facade height -   40-41 mm. (clearance from above) -   17 mm. (clearance from the bottom edge of the facade or from the bottom, connection).
5. Height of front and rear drawer panels =   drawer side height -   16 mm.
6. Drawer side height (for facades with a height of less than 200 mm.) =   Facade height -   23 mm. (Clearance from the top of the facade) -   17 mm. (clearance from the bottom of the facade).
7. The bottom of the box from the fiberboard. Width =   Front and rear drawer panels length + How to drill assembly holes.

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In this article, I propose to consider the calculation of drawers under them.

If you read an article about this pull-out system, you probably already know that the drawers for it are designed and assembled quite differently from other drawers (the same "").

The height of their lateral (q1) and frontal (q1) parts is different, and the bottom, which is slightly offset from the bottom, is made of chipboard.

As a result of this, protrusions are obtained on the sides of such a box, between which the guides themselves should be (in the installed version).

  The size of such a protrusion should be within 13 millimeters.

So, let's look at the calculation using a specific example (this will be more clear).

All values \u200b\u200bproposed hereinafter will be measured in millimeters.

First, we calculate the dimensions of the parts in width (depth).

In order to find out the width of the front parts (q1), it is necessary to subtract 42 from the size of the body strip of the box.

In this case, the width of the hull plank box (width 550) will be equal to:

Now, subtract 42 from this value, and get the width (q1):

Since the depth of the box into which we design the box is 460, the guide for it is suitable for 450.

To find out the size (q2), you need to subtract 10 from the size of the guide (450):

Now you need to decide on the dimensions of the details of the box in height.

When assembled, protrude down 15 under the drawer (see figure below).

  This must be taken into account when choosing a height.

So, if we take the height of the box (or, to be more precise, it will be the height of the parts (q2)) equal to 100, and assume that there should still be a gap of 10 below the guides, then we’ll estimate how much free space  will remain on the overlapping of the casing strips on top:

150-100-15-10 \u003d 25, where 150 is the height of the facade, 100 is the height of the drawer, 15 is the protrusion of the system from below, 10 is the free gap.

  Fine.

The case strips overlap and there is still a normal gap.

Well, the height (q1) is determined taking into account the fact that the bottom of the box is made of chipboard, and it should be offset relative to the parts (q2) by 13:

Well, finally, we calculate the size of the bottom itself.

The width of the bottom will be equal to the width of the part (q1), i.e. 476

The depth will be equal to the size of the part (q2), i.e. 440.

So, now you can record the detail:

• дя1 - 71х476 (2pcs)
• dya2 - 100x440 (2pcs)
• bottom - 440x476

But that is not all.

From the back edge of this box, you need to make two holes with a diameter of 6 mm, according to the dimensions indicated in the figures below.

  Thanks to these holes, the retractable system locks the drawer.

We will talk about how to do the installation in a separate article.

And that’s probably all until next time!

Hello dear reader! Increasingly, customers order furniture with flush-mounted rails. And I understand them perfectly, the guides are superior in quality ball. In addition, the interior of the cabinet is used to the maximum.

The box looks spectacular due to hidden guides. The ride is comparable to expensive brands. The perfectly working closer allows you to enjoy the silence. Simple assembly and disassembly of the system.

Features of the calculation of guides for flush mounting

To calculate the front slats of the box, subtract 41 mm from the inner width of the cabinet. For the side we subtract 10 from the length of the guides. The width of the cabinet is 400. The inner rr 368 - 41 \u003d 327 is the length of the front bar. The guide is 450, which means the length of the side is 440.

The height of the drawer strips has its own peculiarity. The side ones are calculated 16 mm more than the front ones. To hide the guides and drive the bottom of the box into the groove. The distance to the groove on the side is equal to the height of the front slats of the box.

Within walking distance from you, posted on the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Marking guides for flush mounting

The markings on the sides are made based on the height of the sheflots. The attachment line should be drawn at least 45 mm higher from the bottom of the cabinet or the edge of the lower shelf. Do not forget that the width of the sidewall should be 10 mm greater than the length of the guide.

The instructions indicate that the guide must be mounted in the fourth hole to a depth of 37 mm. Having secured in this way, the cheflot did not press tightly against the ends of the sidewall. Displaced by 39 mm and the gap disappeared. Used Boyard flush-mounted guides.

Installing flush mounting rails

To install the box, you need to make two holes with a diameter of 6 mm, in the rear front bar, on the outside of the box. At a height of 11 mm from the bottom of the box and 23 mm from the side bar. For fixing from the back.

For fastening from the front side, to the bottom of the box, flush with the edge, we fasten the clamps. They snap flush-mounted guides to the drawer. To remove the box, just squeeze the blue flags and raise the box up.

Total

Now you know what I know. You are able to install flush-mounted guides without unnecessary movements. The system is very simple and does not require mental effort. Follow the instructions and enjoy a smooth ride!

If you need detailing of cabinet or built-in furniture,. We will certainly discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a consensus. For a moderate percentage for my work, I will prepare for you a detailed project on time.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experiences in the comments.

It will be very interesting for me to listen to your stories!

With good thoughts about you, an expert in furniture matters

Recun Dmitry.

To date, the most popular slide mechanisms for drawers are telescopic (ball) and roller. Not only the service life of the product, but also the ease of use of furniture will depend on the correctness of their installation. Therefore, it will be further considered how to assemble the rails for the drawers with your own hands.

Installing ball guides

By design features, telescopic rails for boxes of different companies may differ slightly, however, the base for everyone has the same appearance: it consists of balls that move along the stamped grooves. Such products can be 2- and 4-row. The second type is considered more durable, it can withstand a fairly large load (about 30-40 kg).

Telescopic rails for drawers have such advantages as:

• ease of installation;
• easy and silent movement;
• ability to withstand heavy weight;
• long term of operation.

Among the shortcomings of such structures, it is worth highlighting a rather large price and the need for accurate assembly.

To carry out installation work, you need to prepare such tools and materials:

• drill with a drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• a simple pencil;
• a ruler;
• guides;
• fasteners.

For proper installation, you need to accurately calculate all the dimensions of the parts and their mounting location. There should be small slots about 12 mm wide on the sides of the assembled drawer and on the sides of the furniture. This should be taken into account when calculating the dimensions of furniture. The depth of the drawer and the length of the rails must be the same. Standard sizes  telescopic mechanism can be from 25 to 80 cm with a difference in length between the following models of 5 cm.

The principle of mounting ball guides is quite simple. First, the telescopes are disassembled into 2 parts, one of which is installed on the inner side of the furniture, and the second on the side of the drawer. In this case, the main and most difficult task is to accurately determine the places of fastening of the product. To do this, on the side of the box horizontally and strictly in the center there is a line along which one half of the guide mechanism is screwed.

After that, a similar horizontal line should be noted on the inner wall of the cabinet. To do this, you can use the drawing of a furniture product. After that, the second half of the telescope is attached along the marked line.

If everything is done correctly, then you can try to insert the removable fastening parts located on the box into the grooves of the guides and connect them. In this case, both parts of the product should smoothly enter each other, and drawer  - easy to navigate through them. Otherwise, everything will need to be done first.

Back to the table of contents

Roller elements

This mechanism is the simplest in terms of design and installation, with a low price. It is able to withstand a load of not more than 25 kg, so it is unlikely that you can store many things in such a box. If it is incorrect to calculate and install roller guides, then they will quickly fail. Therefore, the process of work should be approached with all responsibility.

First of all, on the basis of the furniture drawing, precise marking of the mounting points of the mechanism is made. After that, a through hole is drilled under the screw (its depth should be about 13 mm). Next, 2 more of the same holes are created, the location of which is determined according to the drawing.

At the next stage, the guide element is placed on the box in such a way that the end of the part, on which there is no roller, abuts against the front wall of the box. The wheel should be placed at the back of the box. Using the screws or screws that come with the product, the roller guide is fixed in place. In the same way, mounting is also made on the other side of the box.

Next, we proceed to the installation of guides on the walls of the furniture itself. Here they are placed perpendicular to the facade of the furniture product. In this case, the ball should be in front, and not behind. Typically, all rails have round and elongated screw holes.

Many can’t do all the installation work the first time. In this case, it will be necessary to disassemble the product and markup again to achieve the desired result.